Among the Lilies
I know, two posts in one week! But I *have* to tell you: the lilies are in bloom. I love a lily. They’re my favorite flower, but the Cahaba River sports one beautiful one in particular—the Cahaba Lily. Known as a form of spider-lily or a shoal lily, the Cahaba Lily (Hymenocallis coronaria) is technically a lily in name only and is also found elsewhere in select places like Georgia and South Carolina, but the largest stand of which is located in the Cahaba at the Cahaba River National Wildlife Refuge. This didn’t used to be the largest stand of lilies. No, that one—also in Alabama and hosting over a mile’s length of lilies—was horrifically destroyed through damming.
The lilies are endangered and protected. They are a temperamental flower with very delicate needs. They require shallow, quick moving water, sunlight, and rocky shoals. Also, each bloom only lasts one day. The entirety of their blooming season only lasts for about two weeks from somewhere at the end of May to the beginning of June—and we’re in the midst of it right now.
I make it a yearly tradition to visit the lilies. Two years ago, flooding squelched the blooming season. The river was swollen and roiling, and the lilies were completely submerged. Last year, we had a better bloom, and I wasn’t going to miss out on it. The flowers bloom at night and there are some marvelous photographers who sit all night waiting for the perfect snaps of the freshest of unfurlings. I don’t currently have the equipment, lighting, or wherewithal for the exposure of these beautiful night shots. But I thought maybe I could catch a few good photos in the early morning light. And how lovely would it be to run the kayak on that stretch of river in the cool morning?
So, I called up Sara Scully who is always up for one of my wild hair adventures (and who ropes me in to plenty of her own). We woke at 3 a.m. loaded the boats and were off. Fueled by Red Bull and gas station trail mix, we busted down to West Blocton to the National Wildlife Refuge. We arrived right as the sun rosied the horizon. And while it felt like playing hot potato picking my way among the rocks and dangling my camera over the water, I got the photos I came for. We were not without casualty though, and both of us took separate tumbles into the water. The thing folks don’t tell you about is all the snails congregated on the rocks and how incredibly sharp they are. (Consider yourself warned, all adventure comes with at least a little risk.)
As the rose to crest the treetop line we threw the boats in the water and did the roughly one and a half mile stretch of river taking our time in the quiet of the morning and taking care to honor the presence of the lilies. The thing about kayaking among them is they’re so tall most of the flowers are either at eye level or stretched gracefully above your head. It feels like getting lost in a small fragrant forest.
We made it back into Birmingham by 10:30 a.m. feeling invigorated and ready to take on the day. I don’t know why all mornings can’t start like this. So much of our daily life and societal structure takes us away from the outdoors. We’re smack in the middle the lily bloom right now. If you’ve never made the time to go see them in person, I urge you, go. This weekend is going to be the most perfect time to visit. The weather will be absolutely beautiful, and the water depth agreeable to walking out among the lilies.
Please do remember that the rocks can be slick with algae. Step carefully among the lilies and don’t disturb their growth. But go, please. When you turn into the refuge, you’ll drive about a mile down the gravel road, and you’ll see the beach on the left where most people stop for the views. There are several places to park further down on the right as well. What I’m saying is: it’s easy to get in and out. Go. Make your own adventure of it.
It'll be something you won’t ever forget.
I've seen them on the Tallapoosa, a few years. Mystical babies. Giggling over your snail missteps.